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The Sinulog Food Trip: ‘Pop Talk’ tries restaurants in Cebu
This January, droves of tourists are flocking to Cebu for Sinulog, an annual festival that turns into a giant street party at night and a food fest for the rest of the day. Kuya Tonipet Gaba and the ‘Pop Talk’ team made an early trip to the so-called ‘Queen City of the South’ to review the best lechon and hole-in-the-wall restaurants Cebu has to offer. ‘The best pig in the world’ When food critic Anthony Bourdain came to the Philippines in 2008, he went to Cebu and tried lechon—that crispy-outside-juicy-inside roast pig that many Filipinos admit is better in Cebu than any of their own hometowns. Bourdain took it a step further. “This,” he said, “is the best pig in the world.” [VIDEO: Cebu lechon, the best pig ever]
One well-known brand is Zubuchon, which was the one Bourdain tried and liked. Its name is a portmanteau of the words “Zubu,” the old name for Cebu, and “lechon.” Zubuchon is known for their lechon rice bowls and their rather unexpected kamias shake—a sour yet refreshing complement to the fatty lechon. ‘Pop Talk’ guest reviewer Chef Anthony Gomez liked it, saying, “Lechon is lechon, but they made new flavors that made them stand out.” However, many Cebuanos favor the lechon brand CnT. Though the interiors of CnT are less spacious than Zubuchon’s, the fun happens when you get to watch a lechon being chopped up from behind a glass wall. Seeing the fatty juices fly in every direction gets one in the mood for a great meal. The skin of CnT lechon, locals say, stays crunchy for a very long time, making it a better pasalubong for those flying back to Metro Manila. Budget gastronomy Overspending is the perennial problem of the Sinulog tourist. With all the souvenirs, events, water sports (it’s a short drive to the beach, no matter where you are in Cebu), and street parties, it’s hard to stay within budget. The good news is that Cebu is also home to restaurants that offer delicious food at carinderia prices. Original Conching’s Native Chicken and Fastfood serves Visayan comfort food, such as Bisayang manok and tinolang isda. The simple restaurant is a frequent food stop of Manny Pacquiao. For the more adventurous diner (and by ‘adventurous,’ we might also mean ‘reckless’), there’s Pareng Vic’s Carenderia, which also goes by the name ‘High Blood Station.’ A must-try is their chicharong bulaklak, locally known as ginabot, which food blogger and ‘Pop Talk’ guest reviewer Justinne Go described as “the best chicharong bulaklak I’ve tasted in Cebu.” However, the ‘Pop Talk’ reviewers were unanimous on which carinderia they liked best: Joed’s Lutong Hapon. A Filipino who worked in Japan for a few years owns this small yet well-decorated hole-in-the-wall. For P65 pesos, you can enjoy California Maki; P75 gets you a plate of gyoza! Local favorites When in Cebu, don’t pass up the chance to try local specialties. Because of its proximity to the sea, Cebu is teeming with fresh seafood; coastal restaurants will cook your pick of fresh fish, squid and crabs, which you can then enjoy with puso, a serving of rice bundled in leaves. While those from the Tagalog regions may know pochero as a bright orange stew made from tomatoes, the Cebuano pochero is closer to bulalo—a soup made from boiled beef bones, rich marrow and the meat so soft it falls off the bone. Look for Marjo’s Pochero, a much-loved establishment from the 1960s that serves their original recipe to this day. Whether you’re looking for a gastronomic adventure or Cebuano comfort food, one thing’s for sure: Cebu’s got it all.
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