Gid, gid, haw!: 'Biyahe ni Drew' explores the dazzling wonders of Southern Iloilo

Tucked right in the southwestern tip of Panay Island, the municipalities of Miagao and San Joaquin in Iloilo do not receive as much visitors as their neighbors. But if you don't mind the extra hour and a half of land travel from Iloilo International Airport, then you're in for a treat.

Miagao and San Joaquin are the two southernmost towns of the province of Iloilo, facing the Panay Gulf. Miagao is known for its natural wonders while San Joaquin offers a delectable array of seafood fare.

Quick Facts

Although often confused as the language spoken in the island, Ilonggo is actually a demonym. It's what the people of Iloilo are called. Hiligaynon is their language. Other towns like Miagao and San Joaquin also speak Karay-a or Kiniray-a.

Ilonggos are also known for being soft-spoken because of their language and its intonation. Unlike in other Philippine languages where anger is evident by the way the speaker enunciates each word and the intonation he or she uses, in Hiligaynon, the tone almost never changes, making it sound that although an Ilonggo may already be very mad, he still speaks in a gentle manner or what we Pinoys often describe as malambing.

Watch out! Even if they don't sound infuriated, if someone tells you “Balbalun taka,” you better hurry and get out of their sight while you still can.

Getting there

After a one-hour flight from Manila, the town of Miagao is about an hour and a half away by land. You can either rent a van with a group of friends or you can also ride a jeepney going to Miagao at the Iloilo Terminal Market.

Where to stay

Lhetz Snorkel and Dive Camp (LSDC) Resort
Address: Barangay Cataan, San Joaquin-Aniniy Road, San Joaquin, 5024 Iloilo
Phone: 0916 765 6146

If you are a backpacker on a budget or someone who goes for the artsy and hippy side of things, then stay at LSDC Resort and appreciate the peace and quiet Southern Iloilo can offer. Its villas are right by the shore and the resort is within an arm's reach from the nearest marine sanctuary, making it a favorite among diving enthusiasts. Accommodation costs as low as P600 for a standard room.

The Assemblage Point Resort and Convention Hub
Address: Barangay Lawigan, San Joaquin, Iloilo
Phone: 033 336 2147

If you're more on the traveling in comfort and style side, The Assemblage Point offers great accommodation and amenities which include a swimming pool and a tennis court. The resort also offers water activities for those who would like to have more fun under the sun.
 

Tip: San Joaquin has amazing marine life, and it has a total of 15 marine and fish sanctuaries. Don't miss the great view underwater and arrange a snorkeling or diving session through the front desk.

What to see and do:

Miagao Rice Terraces
Barangay Cabalaunan, Miagao, Iloilo
 

Aside from the world renowned Banaue Rice Terraces in Ifugao and the recently rediscovered Antique Rice Terraces, did you know there are also rice terraces in Miagao? This natural wonder was built both by hand and with the help of minimal equipment. It is also powered by an elaborate irrigation system that makes sure all levels of the terraces are adequately watered.

The trek up the mountains to reach the location of the terraces is about five kilometers of uphill slopes, and beginners may find it torturous. However, the view once you get to the top is a perfect reward.

Bonus! A mysterious rock snakes through the slope of one of the mountains, as if a spine on its side. Different stories surround the history of this rock, and asking your tour guide about it can keep things interesting, especially for those who find mountain-climbing a bore.

Shrimp catching 101

Like what Drew always says, “Do what the locals do.” And since the main sources of livelihood in Southern Iloilo are fisheries and agriculture, you're almost certain you'll meet someone who is either a fisherman, a farmer or both.

Fishermen who have set up traps called “pata” go back in the river at dawn to collect their catch. It's the perfect activity to immerse yourself in the laidback and slow pace of province life. And the best part is, you can have the freshly-caught shrimp from the river for lunch!

San Joaquin Roman Catholic Church
Poblacion, San Joaquin, Iloilo

Built in 1869, this church was declared a national cultural treasure by the National Historical Institute, and is one of the most unique churches in the Philippines. It's pediment, or the front part of the church just above the columns, is a military-inspired relief depicting the Battle of Tetuan, where the Moors were defeated by Spanish forces.

San Joaquin Cemetery
Purok I, San Joaquin, Iloilo

Not every town in the country can boast a cemetery as one of their tourist spots, but San Joaquin actually does. Known locally as “Camposanto,” the cemetery was constructed in the late 1800s by Fray Mariano Vamba, then the town's parish priest.

The cemetery's mortuary, chapel and sculptures on the gate are all made from coral blocks, each bearing an ornate design dating back to its era. Some of the statues that can be found inside the cemetery are that of Jesus and two guardian angels, and near the entrance, two cherubs heads and a skull, as if death greeting those who come to visit the place.

San Joaquin Cemetery holds the distinction of being the most photographed structure in the Central Visayas region.

Bugsukan Waterfalls
Barangay Dalije, Miagao, Iloilo

Take a side trip and dive into the cold waters of Bugsukan Waterfalls, Miagao's hidden natural wonder. Considered a virgin waterfalls, Bugsukan is worth the hour and a half hike.

What to eat and buy for pasalubong

Bandi

Bandi is Iloilo's answer to the Tagalog panutsa. It is made from nuts which is one of the main products of the province, and muscovado sugar. Vendors line up along the national highway, or you can buy from pasalubong centers in the public market.

Bayi-bayi
 

If bandi is to panutsa, then bayi-bayi is to espasol. Made from malagkit rice, bayi-bayi is sold for only five pesos a piece, each wrapped in banana leaf.

KBL: kadyos, baboy, langka

Another Iloilo staple is the KBL, a hearty soup dish made from kadyos, more commonly known as pigeon pea or red beans, pork meat (usually the pata part) and unripe langka, or jackfruit. The broth is sour, somewhat similar to sinigang, although if you are gunning for the authentic experience, the recommended ingredient is bat-wan.

Must visit! Sulu Garden used to be a beautiful private garden and locals and tourists alike would often ask the owners if they can have their photo taken inside. In 2012, the owners finally decided to open the place to the public and converted it to a restaurant. They serve Japanese fare like maki, tempura and chocho, and a few Chinese dishes are also on the menu.—Irvin Cortez/BMS, GMA Public Affairs

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