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Puerto Princesa, Palawan: A ‘Biyahe ni Drew’ itinerary
By Cristina Tantengco
Sometimes, new adventures await in familiar places.
While Puerto Princesa, the “forest city” of Palawan, is already a popular travel destination thanks to its pristine islands and Subterranean River, there are many less-publicized attractions for travelers to enjoy. “Maybe it just takes a fresh pair of eyes para makitang marami pa tayong magagawa at masusubukan sa isang lugar,” said Drew Arellano.
Here’s the itinerary that Drew Arellano and the crew of GMA News TV’s “Biyahe ni Drew” used.
How to get there
By plane. Puerto Princesa is one hour away from Manila by plane. The Puerto Princesa International Airport is less than 10 minutes away from the city center. Most hotels arrange for airport transfers via van or private car.
How to get around
Multicabs, or roomier versions of the motorcycle-driven tricycles you see in Manila, are everywhere in Puerto Princesa. These can comfortably fit two adults in the carriage (or three, if a petite person wants to sit in the “jumpseat”) and one behind the driver. Rides cost between P10 and P30 per person, depending on the distance.
Where to stay
Hotel Centro
Puerto Princesa City Proper, Palawan
Drew and the crew stayed at Hotel Centro, one of the top hotels in Puerto Princesa. At P16,000 a night, good for two plus breakfast, their suites are some of the more expensive out there. But on the bright side? “Ang laki nito tsong!” shouted Drew. We’re talking a king-sized bed, space to run around inside, a lanai, a kitchen, the works. He added, “Two days na kami dito, at ang sarap ng aking tulog.”
Coopers Beach Resort
Brgy. Lucbuan, Puerto Princesa, Palawan
For a more affordable option, try Coopers. Their simple, beach-inspired accommodations go for P4,900 a night, good for two with buffet breakfast and dinner. They also have a dive shop for snorkeling and scuba diving tours.
Diving rates are P1,250 per person if you bring your own gear. Their package that includes diving gear rentals costs P2,000. “Ito ‘yung hinahanap ko every single trip. Ang bango ng dagat,” said Drew. After diving, their staff hands you a complimentary fruit shake. Love it!
Because this resort’s owner is German, this restaurant serves German dishes like pork schnitzel (P390) and currywurst topped with caramelized onions (P290). For dessert? Each diner gets a complimentary grießpudding (pronounced ‘grees-pudding’) with blueberry sauce. It’s moist, creamy and the perfect way to end the meal.
Where and what to eat
Viet Ville (Vietnamese Village)
KM 13, Lourdes, Puerto Princesa, Palawan
Along with Bataan, Palawan was one of the safe havens for Vietnamese refugees in the 1970’s to 1990’s. Most of them have been repatriated to Western countries, so only two remain in Viet Ville: Nguyen Lanh Nhan and Pham Thi Anh. The village is now a cultural destination and restaurant, and Nguyen and Pham work here and help give tours.
The Vietnamese Village is away from the city center, but is near the port that takes you to the Subterranean River. This makes it a good place for a meal after sightseeing at the river. Here, you can try Pham Thi Anh’s pho (P110), a noodle soup that uses beef marrow (also known as bulalo) stewed for over ten hours.
Bona’s Chaolong-an
Manalo Extension, Puerto Princesa, Palawan
For Vietnamese dishes without having to leave the city proper, Bona’s is the place to go. Bona’s was established by a Vietnamese refugee, though the current owner is a Filipino. Order the chaolong (P100), a savory beef noodle soup.
Kinabuch’s
Puerto Princesa City Proper, Palawan
For a taste of Palawan’s exotic food, head on over to Kinabuch’s. Apart from the usual grilled seafood and bar fare, they served crocodile sisig and tamilok. The crocodile sisig is the tamer of the two – the spicy dish tastes similar to ground pork – while the tamilok is more of an adventure.
Our verdict? If you enjoy raw oysters and kinilaw dishes, you’ll love tamilok. Our multimedia producer actually ordered seconds when she went there! If not, you’ll probably end up like our assistant cameraman who gagged after trying it. But love it or hate it, tamilok is definitely part of the Puerto Princesa experience!
Ka Lui
Puerto Princesa City Proper, Palawan
Ka Lui was selected as one of the best Asian restaurants in the prestigious 2012/2013 Miele Guide – and for good reason! From its polished bamboo interiors, pillows that take the place of chairs, and fresh seafood, Ka Lui sums up the best of Pinoy island life.
Ka Lui is just across Kinabuch’s and you can never go wrong with their seafood dishes: cuttlefish sisig, sashimi, grilled tuna steaks. Try the Tubbataha Salad, which combines raw tuna, mangoes, papayas, pomelos, avocadoes and juicy lato seaweed. Diners receive a complimentary bowl of seasonal fruits at the end of each meal, and are free to wander around the art gallery out back.
What to see
Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park
Sabang Beach, Puerto Princesa, Palawan
Colloquially known as the “underground river,” the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is the most famous destination in Puerto Princesa. Our tip: Be at the jump-off port by 7:00 AM. The line gets very long, so the sooner you’re there, the better.
Sidetrip alert! On the way to the jump-off point, you can also try an 800-meter zip line over open water! From the main road, it’ll take a ten-minute trek to the zip line area. It costs P550. Just ask your multicab driver for directions.
Irawan Masagana Falls
Brgy. Irawan, Puerto Princesa, Palawan
This one was discovered by accident, when local guides decided to trek along the river without any plan. What they found was a waterfall that emptied out into a small cove-like pool. Here, you can dive into the cool water away from the rush of tourists that frequent Palawan’s more famous destinations. “Ang pinakapanalo rito, libre ang magpunta sa falls,” said Drew.
Batak Cultural Village
The Batak are one of Palawan’s oldest indigenous tribes. They’re a hunting-and-gathering tribe that lives in the mountains of Palawan, and their cultural village lets travelers learn about their culture and helps provide extra income to their families. The small museum features handicrafts and musical instruments, while the souvenir shops sells simple but beautiful woven baskets.
Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center
The young and young at heart will enjoy seeing the crocodile park and the skeleton of a 20-foot-long crocodile that was captured alive in the 1990’s after it attacked a local. The park houses crocodiles and other animals rescued from poachers, and breeds a non-endangered species of crocodile for its meat. Kids will like the souvenir shops, which sell crocodile stuffed toys and keychains.
Rancho Mitra
Brgy. Santa Monica, Puerto Princesa, Palawan
This ranch gives a birds-eye view of Puerto Princesa and the surrounding islets, but is just 20 minutes away from the city proper. Take as many photos as you want, or try horseback riding and zip lines.
Castaways Shack
Puerto Princesa City Proper, Palawan
Looking for an ultra-chill bar and souvenir shop? Drew and the crew visited Castaway Shack, a hangout place run by laidback, reggae-loving guys. At this off-the-beaten-track bar, they play music, serve drinks of their own recipes, teach guests how to play reggae instruments, and chat with tourists. If you’re up for a night of connecting with locals over drinks, this is the place to be.
Nonong Finez, the owner, kept joking with Drew. “Nagsimula ito sa tambay eh. Tambayan ng mga kaibigan, bakit hindi? ‘Yun yung pinakamaganda sa lahat, ‘yung inom at music. Pero bawal dito ‘yung sobrang lasing. Dapat chill lang.,” he said. “Wala kaming wi-fi dito. Mas maganda ‘yung nakikipag-kwentuhan.”
As for the souvenirs, they sell a wide array of handmade lamps, jewelry, instruments and woven goods.
Iwahig Firefly Watching Tour
Night falls, but sightseeing doesn’t have to stop. Starting at 7:00 p.m., the Iwahig Firefly Eco-Park opens its gates to tourists. Hop in a boat and take a slow tour along the river. With a clear sky full of stars above, an expert boatman beside you, fireflies in the trees, and glowing plankton in the river, you can’t go wrong.
What to buy for pasalubong
Woven goods from the Binuatan Weaving Center
Did you know that Palawan was one of the woven goods suppliers for Calvin Klein’s home decor collection? The Binuatan Weaving Center is both a pasalubong shop and travel experience, as the friendly weavers let visitors try using the looms for free. A pack of six placemats with a matching table runner costs around P400. There are also table sets for larger groups, bags, laptop cases and more.
Crocodile meat
If you enjoyed the crocodile sisig, you’ll be happy to know that airport-ready packages of the stuff are for sale in the city proper. Just ask the multicab driver to bring you to Croconatics, a stall near the tiangge that supplies crocodile meat to many of Puerto Princesa’s grills.
Baker’s Hill
Brgy. Santa Monica, Puerto Princesa, Palawan
If you’re coming from Rancho Mitra, don’t forget to pass by Baker’s Hill. Not only does the bakery sell delicious pasalubong like crinkles and broas, it’s also a tourist destination because of the lovely gardens and mini-zoo designed by its owner. Guests are welcome to run around the park, enjoy the flowers, play on the swings, and take as many photos as you want. Trust us, everything in the park is Instagram-ready.
For snacks, there are also stalls inside the park that sell freshly-made fruit shakes (Drew liked their avocado shake), banana-cue, kamote-cue, isaw and more. –CM, GMA News
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