Breathtaking Batanes: A 'Biyahe ni Drew' itinerary

When GMA News TV’s travel show “Biyahe ni Drew” was just starting out, host Drew Arellano said his dream destination was Batanes, the hilly province at the northern tip of the Philippines.

Batanes is in the path of most tropical storms that cross the Philippines, and as a result, both the landscape and culture of the province have adapted with breathtaking results. The result is a stunning combination of manmade and natural scenery: crashing waves, endless rolling hills, and stocky houses built stone by stone.

No wonder Drew was excited to visit Batanes! Here’s the itinerary used in our first anniversary episode.

How to get there
 

Our trip to Batanes was extra-special thanks to our biyahe partner Sky Jet Airlines. Their 80-seater jet is the same model used by Queen Elizabeth, Prince Charles and the rest of the British Royal Family!

Here in the Philippines, they specialize in exotic locations and serves gourmet food with free-flowing champagne — but even so, their tickets are reasonably priced. One-way flights to the Basco Airport on Batan Island cost around P6,000 per person. Each takes around one hour from the Manila Domestic Airport.

How to get around

Batanes is composed of ten islands, the biggest of which are Batan, Itbayat and Sabtang. Traveling between islands by bangka will cost around P300 per person, per journey.

Flights from Manila land in Basco, the provincial capital, which is on the main island of Batan. From Batan, it takes about an hour to travel by boat to nearby Sabtang. Itbayat, however, is farther away, reachable by either small plane or a four-hour boat ride. The boat rides are famously rough, so make sure to bring medicine to treat seasickness. Drew’s tip: “Magbaon ng lakas ng loob at tiwala sa kapitan ng bangka. Sanay na sila sa alon kaya kalma lang kayo, biyaheros!”

Tour agencies like Batanes Wakay or Batanes Grand Holiday can take care of your logistics. Figure out which destinations you’ll want a guide for and buy tours “a la carte” instead of booking an expensive, all-inclusive package. For most destinations, they can arrange a van to pick you up and drive you around.

Where to stay
 

Fundacion Pacita Batanes Nature Lodge
Batan Island, Batanes

Sitting atop the hills of Basco, Fundacion Pacita has arguably the best morning view in Batanes. Each room has a sundeck overlooking the open sea. The lodge used to be the home studio of artist Pacita Abad, and has since been refurbished by her brother, Budget Secretary Butch Abad.

Pacita’s passion for the arts is seen in each guest room decorated with paintings from both famous and upcoming artists. There’s also an open garden that they encourage guests to use for yoga. All in all, these make the lodge a good place for meditation and inspiration.

Rooms for two start at P5,000 and can accommodate two extra children at no extra charge. Their family loft for up to three adults and two children goes for P6,500 a night, while their high-end “luxury terrace suite” for up to five adults and two kids costs P11,500 a night.

According to their official website: “Staying in this destination hotel supports the island and art — two things close to Pacita's heart. Proceeds of its operations fund the education of young Ivatan artists, as well as heritage conservation projects in Batanes.”

Pension Ivatan Hometel and Restaurant
Batan Island, Batanes

Tess De Leon Valiente, the owner of Pension Ivatan, came to Batanes after marrying an Ivatan native named Raffy in 2004. Their hometel has fewer rooms than the usual hotel, but according to their website, “is built on love.”

Rooms come with free breakfast, cable TV, and a shower with hot and cold water. Their room for two goes for P1,800 during the peak season of October to March, and at P1,500 for the rest of the year. The room for three goes for P2,000 during peak season and P1,800 otherwise. If you’re traveling in a group of five to eight people, you can book the entire hometel for P4,000 to P5,000 a day. For added convenience, they also offer tours around Batan and Sabtang Islands.

Where to eat

Honesty Cafe
National Road, Radiwan, Ivana, Batanes

Those used to the high petty crime rate in Metro Manila will find Batanes’ Honesty Cafe refreshing. There are no cashiers or staffers in this cafe, which collects payments on an “honesty system.” Since Honesty Cafe has been around for some time now, it’s safe to say their strategy is working. As the internet meme goes: “Faith in humanity restored.”




Pension Ivatan Hometel and Restaurant
 

The owner of the hometel, Tess, used to run her own restaurant in Tuguegarao before moving to Batanes, so you know she knows food. For a true Ivatan feast featuring Batanes’ massive, juicy coconut crab, order their seafood platter (P1,700) good for three to five people. An Ivatan meal is also not complete without their native yellow rice, given its flavor and bright color by yellow ginger or tumeric.
 

Bunker’s Cafe
Batan Island, Batanes

Located beside the Basco Lighthouse, this affordable restaurant comes with an amazing view. Drew and the crew tried snails cooked in coconut milk, “lumot soup”, and other delicacies. While its interiors are simple, the view of the sea makes this humble restaurant well worth a visit.

What to see

Marlboro Hills
Batan Island, Batanes

Visit Marlboro Hill for some of Batanes’ most iconic views. It’s an hour away from the city center by van. Once there, you can try horseback riding (P600 an hour) and take as many jump shots as you like.

Basco Lighthouse
Batan Island, Batanes
 

From the Basco Lighthouse, you can view the whole Batan Island from front to end, plus views of Sabtang Island to the south and Itbayat Island to the north. This one’s just over one kilometer away from the city center, making it perfect for a morning hike.

What to do

Bike tour

Get a different perspective of Batanes aboard two wheels. Bike rentals with a tour guide go for P300 an hour, while bike rentals in downtown Basco go for just P50 an hour.

Visit Diura Fishing Village
Batan Island, Batanes

It’s not Batanes without Ivatan culture. Batanes’ locals are tough as nails, and you can witness this firsthand by visiting Diura Village. Here, you can chat with Ivatan families among their stone houses. Drew took this chance to learn about vakul, a traditional Ivatan headdress worn to keep out the sun and rain while working in the fields.

Be a good guest and bring a token from your province as a thank-you gift. If you want to immerse yourself in Ivatan life, schedule a trip to Diura through the local tourism office or through tour agencies.

For more travel ideas in Batanes: “Twelve sights in Batanes you shouldn’t miss”

–Cristina Tantengco/PF, GMA News