Inside the oldest balutan of Pateros

We all know Pateros is the balut capital of the Philippines. Its name, in fact, is derived from one of the city’s two biggest industries: Pato, as in duck.

Because it was near water, and ducks love and need water, residents built industries around taking care of ducks, specifically making the world-famous delicacy that is balut.

(The other big industry was slipper-making. Pateros was famous as a place where alpombras were made.)

According to a recent PinaSarap episode, the balut industry of Pateros reached fever pitch in the ‘80s, when 130 balutan could be found in the city of Pateros.

These days, only two balutans are left, the oldest being R&M Balut Industry, established in 1947.

Despite technological advancements, R&M keeps to their analog ways. They use wicker baskets as incubators, with each basket holding differently aged eggs. The youngest eggs are kept at the bottom.

Where does heat come from? From two things: the eggs themselves and ipa, or sand, which helps hold the heat in.

It takes 24 days before a chick is formed, 18 days for balut to be ready. After 18 days, they would expose the eggs in an improvized light box to see if the embryo is well and alive.

Veins on the surface plus an opaque black part (sisiw) will confirm the embryo is alive. If it’s all black and there are no veins, the embryo is dead—that becomes penoy.

An Abnoy is when the chick is addled and splattered. The opaque area in the egg is bigger, with the liquid part showing the color red. Strangely, Pateros residents have developed a fondness for Abnoy. — LA, GMA News