Ilocos Norte: The heritage marvels of Badoc Church and Paoay Church

Ilocos Norte is a breathtaking part of northern Luzon, with rich colonial-era cultural sites that stand as tangible reminders of our religious and historical heritage. Among the important churches in the province are those in Badoc and Paoay.

Badoc Church

Badoc Church, also known as St. John the Baptist Church, was where the painter Juan Luna was baptized in 1857, as were his siblings Laureana and Manuel Andres.

Established by the Augustinians, the chapel of Sinait was constructed here in 1591. It became a parish in 1714 under the patronage of St. John the Baptist. The church and convent are constructed of stone and chalk (tisa). It was invaded by the Sambal people (a tribe from the Zambales area) in 1660-1661.

The old arch of brick and mortar still greets visitors. Inside the church compound, as common to colonial-era churches in the Philippines, are the church proper and a belltower; in this case, the latter is a separate structure from the former.

The church’s façade has been whitewashed; on the lintel above its simple door of wooden planks grows a plant, a symbol of life and rebirth. Massive brick buttresses, twelve on each side, hold up the church and keep it stable. Inside, the floor is laid with green, yellow ochre, and cream machuca tiles as well as the more prosaic red Vigan tiles.

The retablo is ornately carved and painted gold, while the altar and pulpit are turquoise and gold, reminiscent of the Ilocos sky and sun overhead.

Some parts of the church have been reinforced with modern materials, but traces of centuries-old structures of brick still remain, seamlessly tying past to present.

Badoc Church is home to La Virgen Milagrosa de Badoc. A treat for visitors is the open-air worship area at the back of the church, among some old ruins. Duck beneath wide, low-hanging arches and emerge into two sunny prayer areas. One is graced with a replica of La Virgen, in front of which are an incense pot and a candle rack, proof of the syncretic nature of our Christian worship.

Paoay Church

The Paoay parish, like Badoc Church, was founded by Augustinian missionaries in 1593, and was a labor of love over time and in the face of earthquakes and other disasters.

The construction of the church was spread over a century: the cornerstone of the church was laid in 1704, that of the convent in 1707, and that of the belltower in 1793. The church was used by parishioners even while still unfinished. It was finally inaugurated in 1896. The structure was damaged by two earthquakes, in 1706 and 1927.

Because of its historical and artistic significance, Paoay Church was designated a National Cultural Treasure by the Philippine government in 1973 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site among the country’s baroque churches in 1993.

The sky above the church is often a deep, cerulean hue. The façade is famous from postcards and photographs: it is imposing and magnificent. Constructed in five tiers of brick and coral stone that taper upward, it is adorned with eight pilasters. Spirals adorn the ends of each tier that ends in curves; crenellations stud the triangular top. Overall, it is an interesting design.

Twelve enormous step buttresses on either side of the church hold it up and protect it against earthquake damage.

The belltower is separate from the church, to minimize damage should it fall. Like the church, it is built of coral stone.

An interesting feature is an ornate elevated pulpit in the middle of the church. Made of wrought iron and painted silver and black, it looks like a structure of lace. A small plaque in the center bears the year 1891. A side gate to a shrine is made in a similar style.

The window sills are as wide as the church wall and fitted with wooden window frames with stained glass panes. The floors are of a rosette pattern of red, yellow, and white machuca tile down the center to the altar, like a carpet, while the tiles on the side are of a plain yellow ochre – perhaps a cost-cutting measure.

The altar and retablo are of a plain design compared to others; the latter bears an only a statue of the church’s patron saint, San Agustin. Nevertheless, because of their simplicity, they are all the more inspiring and spiritual.

For those interested in Philippine history, art, religion, and architecture, Badoc Church and Paoay Church top the list of must-see places in Ilocos Norte. — BM, GMA News

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