More of Cebu: Oslob’s whale sharks and Carcar’s lechon

Swim with the whale sharks – check! Eat lechon and chicharon in Carcar – check!

It feels good to tick items off my bucket list, and my most recent trip to Cebu made it possible to do so.

My travel buddies and I allotted one whole day to head 120 kilometers south of Cebu City to rural Oslob, where swimming with the whale sharks has become the main attraction. It takes approximately four hours to drive from the city center to the seaside, which you have to reach from 6 a.m. to 12 noon so you can sign up to swim with the gentle giants of the sea.

Road trip to the south

Travelers may commute by bus, but our tour operator provided a private van with driver and limited its passengers for maximum comfort. We left past six in the morning, just after sunrise, and I made sure to wear my swimsuit underneath my casual beachwear for utmost convenience.

Built in 1599, the Boljoon Church is one of Cebu's oldest parishes. Photos: Nikka Sarthou-Lainez

We stopped over the quiet town of Boljoon where we saw heritage structures that date back to the Spanish era. It was amazing to see such structures like the church, rectory, and the watchtower—all of which had a picturesque background of the mountains and the sea. It was definitely one of the most scenic stopovers I have been to—probably the best place to stretch our legs.

Up close with the biggest fish in the world

Locally known as butanding, the whale sharks attract hundreds of tourists from different parts of the globe every day. During weekends, the number can reach to a thousand—good for the residents who found jobs because of local tourism. Ever since it has become a major attraction, specific guidelines were set to assure safety of the tourists and to lessen the disturbance to the marine animals as well.

You can’t just swim out to sea if you want to see the whale sharks. You have to get in a queue and undergo a short orientation first. Once at sea, you can jump from your boat and keep a minimum distance of around four meters from the shark. Don’t overcrowd the shark and avoid touching it as it could react violently and swim away.

If you’re bringing an underwater camera, make sure not to use flash photography. Avoid throwing trash in the water or feeding the sharks from the tourist boat. There are designated boats that feed the sharks. Also, it is imperative not to apply sunblock before swimming, as the whale sharks may have adverse reactions to it. Good thing our tour operator provided us with a wet bag that contains a rash guard, and toiletries like shampoo and conditioner sachets and soap to use for rinsing.

See whale sharks skim the surface of the ocean in Oslob.

I was surprised to see the whale sharks so close to the shore. I didn’t even have to jump in the water to see one! From the boat, just about 100 meters from the shoreline, we saw the gentle giants skim the waters while eating plankton thrown from the feeding boat. But I couldn’t let the experience pass by so I put on my snorkeling gear and attempted to swim with the whale sharks. Although it was bright and sunny outside, the waters were a bit murky so I couldn’t see so well underwater. It was still a treat to see these large creatures gracefully swim by. They say that these sea dwellers can reach up to 40 feet in length and live to a hundred years or so.

The whale shark interaction ends at around 12 noon, so expect a long line at the shower area. Lucky for us, we didn’t have to stand in line, as our tour operator rented a resort room where we can use the private bathroom and dress up comfortably.

Still on a high from our whale shark interaction, we devoured our lunch meal with gusto as we narrated our amazing experience at sea. Our tour operator ordered a full meal that consisted of fish sinigang, grilled liempo, garlic shrimp, and rice. It was a nice way to complete the experience.

Exploring the land of lechon

Just a couple of hours away from Oslob is the city of Carcar where you will find arguably the best lechon in Cebu. Our first stop was the public market where we saw lechon stalls selling roasted pork for around P300 per kilo only (lechon at the airport approximately costs P600) and pusô (rice wrapped in coconut leaves). Best to go in the morning to see more stalls open. Just a few minutes away is the rotunda where you can sample some chicharon and buy it cheap per kilo as well.

Since Carcar is one of the oldest towns in Cebu, we just had to make a stop at one of its few existing heritage houses, Balay na Tisa. Owned by the Sarmiento-Osmeña family, this structure was built in 1859 during the Spanish era. The house is not open for public tours, and private visits are by appointment only.

The owner of Balay na Tisa prepared a delicious meal for us with lechon as the star of the show.

Petra A. Valencia, who manages the household, welcomed us with open arms and toured us around the well-maintained residence that is filled with beautiful heirlooms and antiques. After recalling stories from the past, we sat down at the dressed-up dining area and feasted on lechon, pusô, a local vegetable dish, and ripe fruits from her garden. What’s unique about their roasted pork is the use of its drippings as the sauce of the meat.

We left the south of Cebu with full bellies and with rich experiences. It was totally worth the long drive. — BM, GMA News