Batanes beyond its stone houses

At the northernmost tip of the Philippines, Batanes is perhaps the perfect getaway for practically any type of person who can afford the 5-digit two-way travel cost and expenses for a few days' stay. 

 

But the novelty of visiting a place that is uniquely isolated from and connected to the rest of the Philippines is enriched by the people you meet along the way: from natives who are willing to share a story or two about their daily routine to fellow tourists who have fallen in love with the province beyond its stone houses and ever-picturesque environment.

 

Meet the Ivatans

 

When God showered the traits of honesty and hospitality to Filipinos, the native settlers of Batanes must have been exposed a bit longer than the others.

 

Where else in the country can you find an unmanned cafe where you can help yourself to much-needed cold drinks (or coffee for those who need to stay awake) after seeing the southern part of Batan Island? Keep your bike unchained outside the house overnight and you're sure to see it the next day. 

 

During tours, guides would remind you that it's okay to leave your packs, even unattended at times, because no Ivatan will have interest in anything that is not his.

 

Itineraries and chance encounters

 

There are people you meet because local fame has earned them a spot in standard tour itineraries, and Florestida Estrella from Ivana on Batan Island and Marcelo Hostallero from Chavayana on Sabtang Island are perfect examples.  

Eighty-five-year-old Lola Ida owns the oldest home in Batanes, and she is believed to be the most photographed Ivatan. 

 

Lolo Marcelo, meanwhile, is the oldest Ivatan in the province at 105 years old.  

You don’t usually run into the owner of Honesty Café, the infamous unmanned sari-sari store that employs self-service and a unique trust that customers won’t go out the door with a couple of unpaid drinks and some biscuits. But a rare encounter with owner Elena Gabilo revealed her thoughts about visitors who do not pay.

 

“Hindi ko problema iyon. Problema nila iyon,” the former public school teacher told GMA News Online about the rare “kupit” incidents in her store. “Baka pagdating ng araw, nasa Maynila na sila, gusto nilang bumalik na magbayad ng utang nila dito,” she added with a laugh.  

She clarified though that running the café is not for profit, “but just to facilitate for those (travelers) who are in need.”

Another Gabilo is locally known for his superb travel photography, mastery of Batanes sceneries, and his trademark yellow Pentax camera: the Sabtang-based Noli. Bumping into him during dinner at the Basco lighthouse was rare since he’s usually in charge of tours and workshops. 

 

But the former fisherman gave a quick note for all visiting snap shooters: do not miss Sabtang, which is home to the old stone house village of Chavayan.

Friendly locals  

Any visitor to Batanes will notice how Ivatans are extra hospitable and friendly. During tours, expect to interact with locals like 90-year-old Aurelia Cielo from Sabtang Island. The professor who visited Racuh Ah Payaman (the green "pastureland" of Batanes dubbed Marlboro Hills) shared that “the secret to a long marriage is to accept (your) differences.”

In Chavayan, hat maker Mariano Gecha gamely chatted with visitors who stopped by his hut for a breather. Sold for P800 each, each hat takes four-and-a-half days to finish.  

For some locals like freelance guide Noel Castillo, keeping in touch with his former clients makes his job fulfilling.

 

“Para sa akin, ang pinakamasaya sa pagtu-tour guide ay ‘yung mga oras na nagkakaroon ng magandang development sa relasyon mo bilang tour guide (at) sa iyong mga hawak na turista,” said Castillo  

Pasig-based tourist and artist Benedict Reyna noted the locals’ admirable friendliness early into his one-month stay in Batanes.

 

“Ang maganda dito, ikaw ‘yung kakausapin. Kapag turista ka, kinikilala ka talaga nila,” shared the UST advertising graduate to GMA News Online.

 

Reyna was staying with his aunt and cousin at a rented house at the fishing village of Diurra. It’s been only one week since he arrived, but the best Batanes experience for him was getting to know the locals.  

“Most likely in Manila, lalo na sa lugar namin, suspicious ka sa mga tao. ‘Di ka masyadong makikipag-usap,” said Reyna, who was planning to produce a documentary on his trip.

 

The locals he had shared drinks with are completely nice, though even the nicest souls have limits.

 

“Sabi nga nila, ‘pag inaway mo sila, wala kang pupuntahan dito sa Batanes,” said Reyna. “Puro dagat iyan. Papaalisin ka talaga dito.”

 

But getting along with the locals shouldn’t be too hard as it is as simple as the lifestyle they have: no frills. 

 

The Ivatans changed little of themselves for tourists, in the same way that visitors can only enjoy Batanes and its beauty in its true barely touched state. –KG, GMA News Disclosure: The author's trip was sponsored by the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency