A fine hideaway in the city of fines

At 6pm on a Friday night, feeling slightly like a jellyfish from the three-hour flight to Singapore, I didn't really have any answer for my roommate's question. "What do you want to do?" he asked me. All I knew was I could use a drink, and maybe some food. My last real meal was at ten in the morning, and I was beginning to get dizzy. Fortunately, my roommate had been around Singapore before. We were staying at a hotel on Bencoolen Street, and he suggested walking over to Arab Street, which was just a few blocks away. No one had any objections to this plan, so after freshening up a bit, we set out for the Muslim quarter turned charming shophouse collection and restaurant row. Dusk was just beginning to fall, and the streetlamps and store signs were especially pretty against the powdery blue early evening. Most shops were open, and it was very tempting to explore each one of them. However, the desire to eat was much more pressing, so we soon settled into an outdoor table at the Muzium Cafe on Bali Lane. They had recently expanded their space, and the waitress apologized for the lack of an electric fan. The night was warm and all the tables were occupied by people having post-work dinner or starting a night out with drinks and lively conversation. The four of us didn't take very long to place our orders - Seafood Mee Goreng (7 dollars), Sambal Seafood Fried Rice (8 dollars), Black Pepper Beef (10 dollars) and Pita Bread with Spinach Feta Dip (7 dollars). There was a Satay Mix with chicken and lamb (8 dollars) and a jug of Tiger beer (20 dollars) to share.

While waiting for the food, we talked about what we planned to do on the trip, and in true tourist style, the conversation trailed off as we all began taking pictures of each other taking pictures. No one seemed to mind - they were probably used to it, and if anyone did mind, we probably wouldn't stop either. Besides, our table was positioned particularly well at the end of the outdoor area, right next to Contemporary Clay Studio, which had a polka-dotted wall that was just begging to become a photo background. The food was all very good, large intimidating servings and flavorful concoctions - maybe a bit too salty, but good with the cold beer. Eventually everyone was trying everyone else's dishes, mouths too busy chewing to say anything. We ended up very full, but still thirsty, so we got some Iced Tea (2.50 dollars) which was not too sweet, and very refreshing. We made our way down Haji Lane, and while most of the shops had already closed for the night, Straits Records was still open, so we went inside to look around. Straits Records is hell for minimalists - there isn't any bare space in the small shops. On the other hand, it's a treasure trove for music-lovers, and even for trinket junkies. Records from a selection of artists both local and foreign are available, and they also consign independent artists. They had a few copies of the Filipino band Us-2 Evil-0 selling for 15 dollars apiece. Apart from the usual T-shirts and keychains, Straits Records also had notebooks, books, lamps, frames and other knickknacks. Straits Records was born as a record label in 1995 as Straits Distribution - serving the hardcore punk community from all over the world. They eventually had to have their own workspace, and after moving quite a bit, they can be found at 49 Haji Lane. From their own description, "Straits means a difficult situation, or hardship, which describes the struggling local music scene really well," said Ridhwan, their head conspirator. "Straits" also aptly indicates a channel, by which a voice from the local music scene may be heard. Fliers from Prohibited Protests for Hardcore Hell II and Punk Rock Night were on a table, featuring bands like Horace, 90s USA punkrock band Pinker, Pinoy hardcore punk attack Tsa, Norphrunt and Kate of Kale. We then peered into the window of A Thousand Tales, which sold lovely furniture. We went into the bar next door, a warmly-lit cozy second-floor space, which turned out led into A Thousand Tales. They were kind enough to let us into the store, and they even turned the lights on for us while we admired the furniture and the collection of design books. After walking around a bit more, we decided to head back for a (relatively) inexpensive nightcap care of the very convenient 7-eleven next to the hotel. We returned to Arab Street a couple of days after, this time earlier in the afternoon. Most of the shops, it turned out, sold clothes and accessories. The Blogshop sold dresses that were each one of a kind - perfect for the shopper who likes feeling as if their purchase was "meant to be." Wicked Laundry was a very sweet-smelling shop - I was drawn like Hansel and Gretel to the gingerbread house. Pluck had home furnishings both vintage and modern, as well as apparel and jewelry. But the real attraction was their ice cream parlor with homemade ice cream that looked as velvety as their plush red chairs. They had everything from Cookies and Cream to Red Bean Gula Melaka, Simply Chocolate to Earl Grey and Fig. They also had some tipsy flavors like Bailey's Irish Cream, Rum and Raisin and Strawberry Champagne Sorbet. I've never been fond of shopping, but believe me - they weren't kidding when they said shopping burns calories. We ducked into a nearby restaurant for some drinks and a snack. We weren't that hungry, so Going Om's Four Cheese Pizza and Mushroom Pizza were just right - personal-sized, tasty toppings on chapati bread. Not bad for 8 dollars each, and inside were low tables, rugs and cushions for the groups smoking from shisha pipes, looking very at home, like they were mostly frequent customers. Going Om isn't just a restaurant, either. They have healing sessions, yoga, and the occasional performance. Outside, in between shops, groups sat on Afghan rugs and cushions, inhaling fruity smoke from shisha pipes. As we walked past them toward the main road, more people were arriving, some on foot, some on motorbikes, and some in cars which could, to my surprise, fit in the tiny lanes. Neatly tucked in the middle of tall office buildings, Arab Street is a cozy cluster of two-floor affairs where surprises of all sizes can be found. People hang around sipping drinks, smoking their cigarettes leisurely, strolling instead of rushing. There's a pleasant, comfy feel, and you almost forget that you're in the city of fines. - GMANews.TV