Founder of Philippine Culinary Heritage Movement weighs in on the ‘sisig with mayo and egg’ debate

When GMA published the story about how the Kapampangans would much rather not have egg and mayo in their sisig two weeks ago, it opened a lively discussion among chefs, food writers, and sisig fans — pretty much everyone — about what sisig really is.

One commentary in particular stood out among the chatter. On Sunday, Chef Jam Melchor of the Philippine Culinary Heritage Movement posted on his Facebook an insightful and very objective comment: “For a cuisine to flourish, we must allow innovations. Acceptable innovations. Kailangan maging open minded tayo,” a portion of his message read.

A Kapampangan himself, Chef Jam admits to also not liking sisig with mayo or egg on top of it.

“But I don’t mind eating it. I don’t mind seeing sisig served as a burrito in a food truck in San Francisco. Actually it makes me more proud as a Filipino,” he went on.

Speaking to GMA News Online, Chef Jam mentioned how important it is for Filipinos to know what authentic sisig — or authentic Filipino food for that matter — is.

In 2013, Chef Jam founded the Philippine Culinary Heritage Movement, after returning home from an ASEAN tour where he promoted Philippine produce to ASEAN nations.

“I was tasked by the Department of Agriculture to promote our produce. And na-amaze talaga ako sa response ng ASEAN. So pagbalik ko, together with other stakeholders — chefs, farmers, food writers, anybody whose life revolves around food — I created the group to help preserve our culinary tradition.”

On the ongoing discussion about ‘authentic sisig’, Chef Jam said, “Bilang Kapampangan, bilang Pilipino, kailangan alam natin kung ano ang authentic, yes. pero kailangan mag-evolve ang pagkain natin to keep it thriving. And for our food to evolve, kailangan maging creative.”

And then he points out the obvious: “Pinigilan ba tayo ng mga Italians gawing matamis ang spaghetti nila?”

Says Chef Jam, what the Kapampangans put forward is very important because it allows for the rest of us to learn what authentic sisig really is.

READ: Sisig with egg and mayo? Thanks, but Kapampangans aren't having any of that

“But I think they shouldn’t stop there. In fact, as a food capital, Kapampangans should be more open in educating and showing us what authentic sisig is, how it is cooked, etc.” 

And then the rest of the world can build from there, Chef Jam continues. “Kailangan mag-flourish at mag-thrive ang ating cuisine, at para mangyari yun, we need creativity.”

One of the questions of authenticity he points out, is ingredients used. “Isa rin kasi yun. May mga sangkap na hindi makikita, kunwari sa America. Dahil nag-innovate, ginawan ng paraan ang isang Pilipino sa States ang paggawa ng sisig, hindi na ba siya totoong sisig?”

Chef Jam, in particular, remembers a quote from the original article. “One of the resource persons said something about ‘a total disrespect’, how authenticity is something earned from experience. I don’t think so. Yung paggamit ng innovation is not total disrespect. Ginamit lang ang creativity, which again, is needed for our food to thrive."

He had one final point that should spark a kind of nationalism in all of us: “When we look at our food, hindi na dapat ‘pagkain natin’, kundi ‘pagkain nating lahat’.” — LA, GMA News