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Bistek bulalo and other Filipino food with a twist at Dekada
“What’s a good place to eat?”
I’m getting used to being asked that question by my acquaintances, friends, and even visiting relatives from abroad. I have suggested date places, hole-in-the-wall establishments, and everything in between. But when asked about good Filipino restaurants, my answers would be the usual popular bets. Now, I have something new to say.
Discovering historic Filipino food
I’m pretty impressed with Dekada’s twist on Filipino cuisine. The establishment has been around for a few years now, serving historic Filipino food, which was made true to its name ever since Chef Niño Laus revamped the heritage restaurant’s menu in 2015.
According to the chef consultant, “Sinubukan namin gawin yung authentic dishes ng mga favorite heroes natin, which are based on facts and research from different food historians.”
What’s interesting about Dekada is that you’ll find traditional Filipino food components with the chef’s unique spin applied to the recipes. Months of research and development went into the well-curated menu that features significant dishes based on Philippine history and some of its noteworthy figures. There are dishes inspired by the palates of Jose Rizal and Marcelo H. Del Pilar, among others. “You get a brief history of the Philippines through the visuals [in the menu] and through your food,” said the chef, who is famous for his style of fusion cuisine.
Tasting Dekada’s fusion cuisine and new dishes
Laus introduced some adventurous starters. A must-try is the Tinapang Tahong Rebusado, which reminds me of what you’ll get from fish ball vendors in the street. The pieces of smoked tahong are breaded and skewered in wooden sticks and served with three types of condiments—sweet and sour sauce, Manong Fish Ball sauce, and sinamak vinegar. For me, the tangy vinegar went best with the smoky flavor of the mussels. Its fun presentation appealed to me since it reminded me of my childhood when I would buy fish balls for an after-school snack.
Another good appetizer is the Duweto ng Kinilaw that has two kinds of ceviche. “Pag kilaw o curing is one of our processes of preparing food lalo na nung unang panahon. During the 1500s that’s how they prepared food,” shared the chef.
Dekada’s sampler has kinilaw na tanigue sa gata (fish in coconut milk) and kinilaw na salungo na may mangga (uni with mango). It was the first time I tried uni this way and I liked how this creamy bounty from the sea contrasted well with the tart mango bits.
For a relatively healthy option, go for the Pako Salad, which highlights the fiddlehead fern that is common in provinces but not so much around the metro. I like how it’s tossed with homemade kesong puti, salted egg, pork floss, and drizzled with adobo vinaigrette dressing. The pork floss gave it a crunchy texture and added another layer of flavor. Very tasty indeed!
You can’t eat Filipino food without rice! I highly recommend the Aligue at Alimasag Fried Rice, sinangag sa aligue na may itlog at chili-garlic. The platter of bright orange rice is topped with cracked crab and bit of toasted garlic. It’s so good that you can’t just stop with one scoop of rice. Dieters beware!
The main course that I appreciated the most was the Sinigang na Lapu-Lapu sa Mangga that comes with bagoong alamang. I liked how green mango was used as a souring agent and how it produced just the perfect degree of sourness—tickling the back of my throat just right. The moist and flaky fish was a delight to eat, especially with the light broth.
I’m partial to chicken as well so the Binakol ala Melchora was my entrée of choice. The poultry is boiled in coconut water and cooked with papaya, lemongrass, ginger, onions, and sili leaves. Its mild taste is very comforting, as it tastes like my mother’s home cooking.
My meat-lover hubby, on the other hand, loved both the Balbacua and Rizal Bistek Bulalo Asada. Instead of an ordinary plate, the balbacua was beautifully presented in a small wok. The ingredients—goto, buntot at kenchi ng baka, tausi, nuts, tomatoes, and lemongrass—were arranged in a way that’s pleasant to the eyes. It’s not just nice to look at, the flavors delivered as well. I have never tried balbacua before, and at first glance, I thought it would taste like curry because of its yellowish sauce. Apparently, the tinge of color came from the turmeric and the taste was far from curry—it had a tangy taste from the kamias. The best part was the ox tail meat that practically melts in your mouth. No wonder my husband enjoyed eating it!
The chef mentioned that the bulalo was inspired by what Jose Rizal liked to eat during his lifetime. He had a sophisticated palate, which is why the beef was served with potato wedges. In this version of the traditional bistek Tagalog, the onions are fried and placed on top of the meat, the sauce was thickened into gravy-like consistency and was doused all over the sizzling plate. The protein was cooked perfectly that we didn’t even need a knife to cut through the fork-tender meat!
Another hearty option is the Inihaw na Bacon Liempo that comes with apple toyo-mansi sauce with siling labuyo and calamansi. It’s kind of unusual to taste bacon in typical grilled pork belly but it’s something different and it grows on you.
It was almost gluttonous to have dessert, but I couldn’t pass up the chance of sampling the Taho at Kesong Puti Cheesecake. Since it’s made with tofu and white cheese, I told myself that it’s a healthier alternative as I ate one spoonful after another. The tapioca and mango bits gave it some texture, while the arnibal sauce added a hint of sweetness. I finished the whole thing, but I suggest you share the slice of cake with others especially after having a full meal.
As we finished our dessert, I witnessed the staff set up for their merienda buffet offering and saw more people come inside the restaurant. I would’ve stayed for the kakanin, but I don’t mind going back next time when I have the stomach space to appreciate more Filipino food, my comfort food. — BM, GMA News
Dekada is located at the 2/L Glorietta 3, Ayala Center Makati City (+63 2 841-0131); U/G SIAL-Fairview Terraces, Wellworth Department Store, Fairview, Quezon City (+63 2 621-4153); and at 4/L, Garden Restaurants, TriNoma, EDSA corner North Avenue, Quezon City (+63 2 901-3262).
