Laing + lasagna and tinapa with spaghetti at New York Pinoy Deli

It has nothing to do with law enforcement, but at this NYPD, people can expect an arresting fusion of familiar flavors. New York Pinoy Deli is a new restaurant that combines two Pinoy favorites: our own Filipino cuisine and the distinct dishes of America.

This casual dining outlet on the ground floor casino level of Resorts World Manila features menu items that provide a taste of the Big Apple with an unmistakable Filipino flair. Most were on offer at the grand launch last month.

There’s Laing Lasagna, which looks and tastes exactly as the name suggests. The classic pasta dish actually works with the flavor profiles of the spicy Bicolano dish of dried taro and coconut milk. There’s Tinapa Spaghetti, another pasta creation enlivened with smoked fish and salted eggs, then taken to the next level with crab roe, ripe tomatoes, garlic and olive oil.

For meat eaters, The Manhattan Burger is a safe choice, with a thin slice of bacon wedged between the thick patty and bun. There’s also the 5th Avenue Fresh Roast Turkey Sandwich, served with a plate of fries, and the Rainbow Room Monte Cristo (P490), their version of the classic sandwich with ham, turkey, and camembert cheese on lightly toasted loaf bread.

Servers presented guests with tasting portions of Chicken Adobo. Our mothers’ version of the Pinoy staple is of course, always the best, but this one is not bad. The meat was clearly stewed for a long time until the vinegar and soy sauce permeated every layer of the meat. A true Pinoy won’t even dream of eating it though without a cup of steaming white rice.

NYPD also serves a variety of fusion pizzas, including a basic cheese and one called Embotido Pizza, all made with homemade sourdough bread and baked in a brick oven.

For dessert, there is a selection of cakes and pastries, and homemade ice cream with out-of-the-ordinary flavors, such as Peanut Butter and Jelly, Banana and Cinnamon, even one made with Garlic. Compared to this, regular vanilla-and-chocolate suddenly seems bland and boring.

For those with heavier cravings, NYPD offers a Central Park Island Buffet, which includes soups, salads, a meat-carving station, and a savory crepe station. (At the launch, pritchon was generously served to guests).

The restaurant, which replaced the buffet concept Mercado, is the brainchild of RWM chief hotel operations officer Scott Sibley, senior director for F&B Hubertus Cramer, culinary arts director Cyrille Soenen (who also helms the kitchen at RWM’s Impressions), pastry chef Michael Lopez, and Angelo “Chubby” Timban, who is the lead chef of NYPD.

Because it is right next to the slot machines, my initial impression of NYPD was a restaurant that exists mainly to provide sustenance and satisfy the cravings of the casino patrons.

However, the extensive selection and overall good quality of the food suggests it can cater to customers outside of the baccarat players and dice-rollers. RWM will just have to work around the problem of the location if they want to attract families since minors aren’t allowed inside casinos.

The prices are reasonable (particularly for a restaurant in an establishment like Resorts World Manila), and the ambiance is generally pleasant (if you don’t mind the slight din of the casino gaming machines). All in all, it’s probably the most sensible option to experience a tiny bit of New York without ever leaving Manila. — BM, GMA News

NYPD ((2) 908 8833) is on the ground floor gaming area of Resorts World Manila.

Paul John Caña is a magazine writer and live music geek. He is also co-founder of libreto.org, an online collective of writers and artists. Email him at pjcana@gmail.com or follow him on Twitter and Instagram @pauljohncana.