Nobu Matsuhisa’s cuisine comes to Manila

A man garbed in a white chef’s coat, blue jeans, and sneakers sat unassumingly at one of the dining tables at the elegant Nobu Manila. I had to do a double-take to confirm that it was really Chef Nobu Matsuhisa in the flesh.

I recognized him from the glimpses I would get of this celebrity chef from international food television shows that I am fond of watching. I expected to see an intimating man—maybe dressed in full chef’s uniform complete with a toque, but was pleasantly surprised to meet an approachable fellow who even joked about the infamous Filipino time.

An intimate group of media people was invited for lunch during Chef Nobu’s recent visit, and he wondered why some didn’t arrive on schedule. With amusement in his voice, the chef said with a smile, “Manila has very nice people, except the time late.”

A taste of Filipino culture

Aside from time, this classically-trained sushi chef also values customer satisfaction. He appreciated that the locals are so nice and are always smiling. “We need hospitality like this. Even in the restaurant, when guests come, I want to see customers smiling.”

It is only the second time that the acclaimed chef set foot in the Philippines, but even before coming here, he was already somewhat familiar with Filipino food because he has Filipino chefs in his restaurant in New York City.  

“My Filipino chefs cook staff meals—a lot of pork, Filipino food. It’s really interesting this country, this culture. I like to learn from the Filipino culture. Still learning,” he said.

He even became acquainted with bangus, and was thinking of the best way to cook it. “In my opinion, [it is] best fried,” he said, adding that he plans to use a special frying technique for it. It hasn’t been incorporated in the restaurant’s menu yet, although the chef is considering doing so.

A culinary genius

A native of Saitama, Japan, Chef Nobu mastered his craft through rigorous training at a respected sushi bar. From Tokyo, he moved to Peru where he opened his own sushi place. His travels and exposures to various cultures helped mold his inventive style in the kitchen.

While in South America, Nobu became more experimental. “I started using cilantros, jalapeños, chili paste, and sashimi with lemon juice, salt, and garlic.” He was able to create new dishes from his experiences abroad, using different ingredients but still keeping with the Japanese technique and culture.

An example of such dish is the yellowtail jalapeño sushi that Chef Nobu served during his visit. The raw fish was thinly sliced, topped with a sliver of jalapeño and cilantro leaves. I have never encountered this exciting combination of flavors, but still didn’t hesitate to try it since the presentation looked so appetizing. After my first bite, I found myself nodding, closing my eyes, and saying “Mmm” out loud.

According to the chef, he created the dish during a charity dinner event in Hawaii. After serving 250 guests, the chefs began to prepare meals for the staff with the leftover fish. “I was looking in the fridge, found the jalapeño and cilantro. I’m tired from using just the soy sauce and wasabi,” he said. By combining all the ingredients, he unintentionally created a hit. Now, the dish is served all over the world.  

The chef also disclosed, “Lots of my signature dishes come from customers’ ideas.” Many of his diners would have particular requests and he would actually consider producing something from the suggestions that he would get.

There’s no stopping this chef who has received notable citations for his restaurants, such as Nobu's being awarded the Best New Restaurant by The James Beard Foundation in 1995, and Nobu San Diego receiving a Michelin star in 2008. Matsuhisa has also received accolades such as being named one of “America’s 10 Best New Chefs” by Food and Wine Magazine in 1989, and one of the “11 Most Influential Chefs of the Decade” by Madrid Fusion in 2009.

Visiting the 32nd branch of Nobu

Nobu Manila is the 32nd branch of 36 Nobu restaurants in 31 cities in five continents. Thanks to the chef and his business partners—Academy Award-winning actor Robert De Niro and restaurateur Drew Nieporent—Nobu became an instant sensation just like the chef’s other restaurant concept, Matsuhisa.

The first Nobu branch opened in New York City in 1994 and it is still going strong even after twenty years in the industry.

The local branch is pretty spacious and can comfortably accommodate 335 guests in its dining area, which includes two private dining rooms, two teppanyaki tables, a sushi bar, floating water cabanas, and even a Chef’s Table.

Sample Nobu’s contemporary fusion cuisine that includes world-renowned signature dishes like Creamy Spicy Rock Shrimp Tempura with wasabi pepper sauce and Black Cod Den Miso. Pair it with premium sake or signature cocktails like Matsuhisa Martini, Mia Margarita, or Yamasaki Sidecar.

I heard diners in the US need to call ahead to reserve a table. Should that be the case in Nobu Manila, make sure you order the cod, which is one of the bestsellers you shouldn’t miss. One bite of it and you’ll know what Nobu-style cuisine is all about. — BM, GMA News

Nobu Manila is located at Level 1, Pool Deck, Nobu Hotel, City of Dreams Manila, Aseana Boulevard corner Macapagal Avenue, Parañaque City. Open from 6-11 p.m.