Ezra Santos and Albert Andrada create clothes fit for royalty

Shamal, the northwesterly wind known for creating sandstorms in the Persian Gulf, may be unknown in the Philippines but two Dubai-based Pinoy designers seemed to have brought its soul to these tropical shores when they blew away Manila’s fashionistas with their exotic creations recently.   At the Philippine Fashion Week last month, Albert Andrada and Ezra Santos brought a dazzling repertoire to the runway with clothes that conjured images of elegant queens and splendid palaces.  

Orientalism   Albert Andrada made an entrance fit for royalty when he opened one of the premiere shows last May 24 with elaborate designs inspired by porcelain marbles and lanterns. Through chamois, silk, shantung, tulle, chiffon, and leather, Andrada led the audience in a journey of learning and relearning traditional culture. His work traces Asian heritage while introducing a modern twist to the kimono, hanfu, and hanbok with sensual silhouettes and delicate craftsmanship.   The in-house designer for the Fujairah Ruler’s Palace, Andrada traveled to China for inspiration before the show. “I did a lot of research and I came up with this concept of Orientalism,” he said.   His idea of “Orientalism” is multi-cultural. “It doesn’t have to be Chinese. It doesn’t have to be Japanese. It’s not specifically on that issue. It’s all oriental,” he explained.   However, he had to adjust to the Filipino crowd, taking the challenge of lessening the glitter. “I made three couture dresses without any embellishment, without any bling,” he said.   His education at the Slim’s Fashion and Art School, established by Salvacion Lim Higgins (“Slim”) and her sister Purificacion, influenced his decision.   “What I thought only was that I was an alumni of Slim’s. I should not stick with embellishment or embroidery but [instead] in couture cuttings,” he explained.     Although he has attained success in Dubai, Andrada admits that the journey was fraught with difficulties. “I was just starting. All the young designers are struggling. Not all resources are here. Not all fabrics are here,” he recalls his early days in his native land.   “While I started my career in the Philippines, I accepted the challenge of being there in the Middle East. It paid off but it wasn’t easy,” he said.   “We have to sacrifice being away from our country, and from our families,” says Andrada, narrating his woes as a young designer.   “There in the Middle East, you can’t imagine – it’s like an art education. When they want it, you have to give it to them. If the demand is like this, you have to give it to them,” he says.   “You don’t surrender because you are a Filipino. You know Filipinos, we fight, we can show, we can prove to the world that we can do it, no matter what,” he adds.   Today, Andrada has access to the most expensive materials available. “Would you believe that the most beautiful experience I had abroad was buying a material which cost $80,000 per yard?” he shares enthusiastically.   “For me, it was really a dream,” he says.   Luxurious atelier   Ezra Santos, another Filipino designer who has succeeded in penetrating the international scene, mesmerized the crowd as he opened “Memoir of an Arabian Princess” with a structural piece embedded with Swarovski crystals.   “Basically, the inspiration comes from the country where I was blessed to have the opportunity to have my own business,” he says.   “The whole collection is a tribute to the multi-cultural Dubai. It’s about the country. It’s about the architecture. It’s about the different culture that works there,” he adds.   Santos maintains a luxurious atelier at Wasl Road in Jumeirah. It has over sixty employees, half of them Filipinos.   “I was working for the top shop in Dubai for nine years. I felt like my career was already stagnant so I decided to put up my own. It was hard work but thank God, it paid off,” he recalls. His collection is a concoction of familiar and strange archetypes. He plumbs the depths of artistry and fashion by recreating popular images through structure and embellishment. His clothes displayed a playful array of gold and semiprecious stones as well as an extravagant combination of lace, tulle, and taffeta in shades of gray, brown, and peach.   Also a graduate of Slims, Santos pursued higher studies at Central Saint Martins in London.   “I get inspired whenever I travel. Seeing different countries, their architecture, their museums, inspire me and from there, I start sketching,” he says.   In the future, he shares, “I’m planning to do ready-to-wear and tap the New York market. I’m also hoping I could do more shows in the Philippines.”   Even though he has a thriving business in Dubai, Santos yearns for home. “The Philippines is still the place where you can be yourself, where you can go back. You just love being here,” he concludes. – YA, GMA News