Traditional Filipino textiles are getting a modern twist
Traditional textiles are usually deemed outdated and are only reserved for lolos and lolas. And although these traditional designs still exist, some local brands are modernizing conventional fabrics to appeal to a younger crowd.
Take for example Lakat Sustainables, a sneaker brand that uses pineapple fibers to make stylish and minimalist shoes; or Piesa, an accessory brand that uses old Barong Tagalog fabric to create statement accessory pieces; or fashion and textile designer Monica Madrigal, who uses her skills to create new patterns in traditional weaving.
These brands not only create beautiful fashion pieces but also keep Filipino weaving culture alive. The brands are actually just three of the many enterprises that are championing Filipino fabrics in this year's Likhang HABI Market Fair, which will be held from October 14 to 16 at the Glorietta Activity Center in Makati City.
The fair showcases local textiles and artisanal ware from different parts of the Philippines. This year, 60 vendors are offering woven fabrics, ready-to-wear pieces, home accessories, pottery, and furniture.
Pineapple shoes
Lakat Sustainables is one of the brands of Creative Definitions, a social enterprise that has partnered with the weaving communities in Negros. Established by husband and wife Mike and Banj Claparols in 2008, the business produces 100 percent Filipino-made products including its newest brand, Lakat.
“In 2017, my wife and I traveled to Hong Kong and we attended some sort of a trade fair related to footwear and sustainable materials. So that was the light bulb moment, I said, 'Wow, in the Philippines we are gifted with so many fibers.' The key there is to convert those fibers into something wearable,” Mike recalls in an interview with GMA Lifestyle.
The following year they started their research because they wanted to create a sneaker brand that utilizes traditional fibers. They were able to get help from the Philippine Textile Institute of the Department of Science and Technology and designers from the Center for International Trade Expositions and Missions (CITEM). They discovered that there is an existing technology that can help them create the fabric they need.
Lakat sneakers feature a classic design and come in different colors. | Source; lakatsustainables (IG)
In 2019, they created prototypes of the shoes and later that year found a shoemaker in San Mateo, Rizal. But because of the pandemic the following year, they had to put the launching of the product on hold. The year 2020 was all product development until they finally launched in November 2021.
The result is a pair of sneakers that feature a classic design that would appeal to various consumers across different markets. The shoes are made of canvas-like fabric made from a pineapple and cotton blend textile from Negros and rubber outsoles made from Mindanao--100 percent made in the Philippines.
“I wanted to prove also to the government agencies and even to the public, that we can come up with a really good 100 percent Filipino made product that can be exported. My long term plan is going global also,” Mike says.
Aside from new designs and color combinations, the brand is already looking at new materials they can use in their products like banana stalks, abaca, and bamboo. Currently they source the pineapple leaves from farms in Don Salvador Benedicto in Negros Occidental and the cotton from Negros Oriental.
“Traditionally most raw fibers here are brought abroad and they do the processing there. I want to change that because what the pandemic basically taught is self sufficiency, if we can produce it here then it's better. We don't have to worry about delays in importation or the fluctuation of the dollar. So it's really putting our minds together,” Mike shares.
New patterns
Fashion and textile designer Monica Madrigal also sources some of her fabrics from Negros, specifically from Negros Nine Weavers with the help of the Claparols couple. Her brand produces ready-to-wear pieces that showcase traditional fabrics that have modern design and patterns.
“The aesthetic of my clothes is easy, everyday clothes that you can wear. I work with weavers from different parts of the Philippines. A lot of times when people look at traditional textile, it looks very ethnic, very obviously hand-woven. Mine is a bit more modern, very simple and very elegant and that's what I want to achieve for my clothes,” she explains.
Monica's brand mostly makes tops and dresses that feature classic silhouettes. The pieces also showcase different fabrics and patterns that are both modern and unmistakably Filipino. She mainly sources her fabrics from Negros, Lanao del Sur, and Zamboanga.
As a textile designer, she designs the fabrics herself. She guides her partner weavers on her designs.
Monica Madrigal uses her textile design background to create new patterns with traditional fabrics. | Source: monicamadrigalrtw (IG)
“My background is textile design so most of the weaves that I use are weaves that I actually designed myself in collaboration with the weavers. I don't take away from their aesthetic, I still use patterns unique to their aesthetic but I play with the design and colors. Every fabric I use is unique to my brand,” she explains.
Her pieces are colorful and easy to wear, which she describes as “versatile” pieces. Her customers are mostly in the age range of 30 to 40 but younger and older women also buy her clothes.
“The reception has been very good. My designs appeal to a wide range of ages, so from 20s to as old as 70s, it appeals to such a wide range of age, which I think is good,” she shares.
Most of the fabric that she uses is made of locally grown cotton. Her goal is to create flattering, easy to wear clothes that showcase Filipino culture.
“I have tops that are free size, so no matter what your size is, it's flattering. People wear it for casual days or at the beach. It's very versatile and that's what I really want to achieve with my clothes--easy everyday versatile wear that showcases our Filipino culture,” Monica shares.
From scraps to accessories
While Lakat and Monica Madrigal make their products from scratch, Piesa makes its accessories from retaso or fabric scraps. “The concept behind Piesa is upcycling because everyone is asking [brands] to lessen the waste,” shares Piesa founder Paula Dimaano.
Piesa makes fabric-wrapped wire accessories, which are bold in design and considered as statement pieces. The brand buys scraps from local designers and dressmakers and creates beautiful accessories out of them like necklaces, earrings, bangles, and cuffs.
Piesa's fabric-wrapped wire accessories are statement pieces including its new collection for HABI that is made out of barong fabric strips. | Source: piesaph (IG) and HABICouncil (FB)
For this year's Likhang HABI Market Fair, Piesa is offering a special collection that uses fabrics from old Barong Tagalog. Paula collected barongs from her dad and relatives to create one-of-a-kind pieces that feature traditional pinya fabric.
Paula shares that whatever fabric they use adds to the character of the pieces. For instance, the barong fabric they used in this special collection, the old barongs give the accessories that character and uniqueness factor.
“We cut up the fabric into strips, so the discoloration of the fabric is part of the character of the accessory. In terms of design, it would be unique and what catches your eye including the discoloration, the embroidery, they become part of the unique piece you're wearing,” Paula explains.
Piesa partners with designers and dressmakers and eventually she wants to partner with barong makers so the brand can make more accessories made out of barong.
Paula shares that creating the pieces for Piesa is very tedious. They use aluminum wires as the base, which are then wrapped, twisted, and formed into the shapes of the accessories. Most of the pieces are made in two to three hours while some more intricate pieces take as long as a day or two.
A lot of Piesa's customers are mostly working women that use the accessories as statement pieces. The pieces stand out especially if worn with a simple outfit. The brand's goal is to really upcycle materials that are regarded as waste.
“We also want to contact barong makers that have remnants of the barong because we don't need a whole cloth to make jewelry that we do, only retaso (fabric scraps). In reality, most of it goes into the waste pile. The goal is to turn those fabric scraps into wearable pieces,” Paula ends.
MEANWHILE, LOOKING FOR LOCALLY MADE GIFTS FOR CHRISTMAS? CHECK OUT THE GALLERY BELOW:
