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Travel back in time at the new Intramuros


In the heart of Manila, a walled city is tucked away. Inside Intramuros, it is so quiet that time seems to stand still, or turn back. The 64-hectare area, once home to residences, churches, palaces, schools and government buildings, is now one of the least crowded places in the city. The construction of the walled city began in 1571. It served as the political, cultural, educational, religious and commercial center of the Spanish colony in Asia. Honored by King Philip II as the Insigne y Siempre Leal Ciudad (Distinguished and Ever Loyal City), it was erected to protect the seat of the Spanish government from threats of foreign invasion, particularly from the British and the Dutch, and Japanese and Chinese sea pirates. World War II and a number of natural disasters reduced Intramuros to rubble. The Intramuros Administration was founded to preserve and rehabilitate its illustrious past. Under the newly appointed head Jose A. Capistrano Jr., the IA aims to revitalize Intramuros as the place to be. Once designed to keep people out, Intramuros is now open to the public. More than being open, the IA wants Intramuros to become a top tourist destination. Among their plans are a lively nightspot at the Maestranza along the Pasig river, like Singapore's Clarke Quay. They will also restore the old Ayuntamiento building and the old Intendencia building, and install Ciudad Murada in the Philippine Constabulary Barracks. "The shape of the PC barracks is similar to the shape of Intramuros itself. So we thought we could have a 1:25 scale replica of the old Intramuros there," said Capistrano.

The entrance to Fort Santiago. Photo from Intramuros Administration
To ensure safety, the IA plans to light Fort Santiago, and to ease traffic, tranvia-inspired shuttles and electric cars will bring visitors around Intramuros. The grand restoration project will be funded by private-public partnerships. "We want to emphasize our working with community," said Capistrano at a press conference last April 15. He added that the IA is currently making relocation arrangements with the residents of Intramuros. "We are also studying putting up call centers in Intramuros. There is a height limit for structures in Intramuros, so we think call centers would be ideal," he says. A peek at Museo de Intramuros In the meantime, work has begun on the Museo de Intramuros, which has a P150-million budget from the National Commission on Culture and the Arts and the general appropriations. The museum will feature the IA's extensive collection representing the Philippines' material culture and heritage from the Spanish colonial period to the pre-war era. "We have about 1.8 million pesos worth of arts and artifacts largely ecclesiastical in nature," said Capistrano. The museum will be reconstructed on the site of the old San Ignacio Church, and should be open to the public next year. For now, IA has set up "Sulyap: A Preview" which offers a peek into the Museo de Intramuros. On display are religious images, accessories for men and women, tableware, household furniture, recreational objects, sanctuary silver, inlaid furniture and other ceramics, and kamagong and pina objects.
Old-fashioned doors and other parts of the house are on display in Sulyap.
"Mula sa Lumang Bahay" features architectural details extracted from colonial houses in various parts of the country at the turn of the century. These include balusters, door and window transoms and sashes, ventanillas, louvers and shutters, lattice work, arches between rooms, window grilles, grille gates, newel posts, stair railings, column capitals, dividers and brackets. Visitors can also experience the old city life in Casa Manila, a colonial lifestyle museum. A two-floor building, Casa Manila's ground level is devoted to shops selling antiques, art, and souvenir items. On the second floor are the living quarters.
This turn-of-the-century baul holds years and years of stories.
The house is completely surrounded by wide capiz shell windows, which are usually open to keep the house airy. There is a zaguan (corridor) where carruajes (carriages) would enter to drop off passengers by the stairs. The tour begins at the entresuelo (literally "between floors") where visitors wait before they are ushered into the despacho. Fit for a typical extended Filipino family, there are several cuartos. The antesala is where the family would play parlor games, entertain guests, or have their merienda. The sala is where terulias (soirees) and bailes (dances) are held, and where the family entertains very important people. In the oratorio, the family would gather every evening to pray the Angelus. Large santos are also kept here. In the Blue Room are wall paintings from Pompeiian motifs which influenced the neo-Classical style. In the cuarto principal are status symbols like the aparador de tres lunas (armoire with three sections), the temor (dresser with swinging full-length mirror) and the marble lavabo (washstand). The comedor (dining room) is lined with palteras (sideboards) where porcelain, silver and glassware are displayed.
Different kinds of balusters hang from the ceiling.
The cocina (kitchen), letrina (toilets), bano (bathroom) and azotea give visitors a glimpse of how different life is now. In the cocina, a can of kerosene is placed under every leg of the paminggalan (cupboard) where preserves and leftovers are stored. The kerosene is to prevent ants from going up. In the letrina, flushing meant throwing large buckets of water down the toilet. The bano contains stoneware bathtubs, where the master of the house sits while servants pour water. In the azotea, laundry is done by the aljibe (cistern) and herbs like tanglad (lemongrass) and pandan are picked fresh for cooking. "Sulyap: a Preview" and "Mula sa Lumang Bahay" are open to the public until May 30, in celebration of National Heritage Month, from 9 am to 5 pm. Casa Manila is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. from Tuesdays to Sundays. For inquiries, please visit www.intramurosadministration.com - YA, GMA News